
Calcio Storico
Calcio Storico, often referred to as “historic football,” is a game that blends the intensity of rugby, the strategy of soccer, and the physicality of wrestling into one of the most unique and enthralling sports in the world. Originating in 16th-century Florence, Italy, this ancient game is more than just a sport; it is a living testament to the city’s rich history, culture, and traditions.

Played annually in the heart of Florence in the sandy Piazza Santa Croce, Calcio Storico is not for the faint-hearted. The event takes place each June, culminating in the final match on June 24th, the feast day of San Giovanni (St. John the Baptist), Florence’s patron saint. The game pits four teams from the city’s historical neighbourhoods against each other in a tournament that is as much about pride and honour as it is about winning.
The rules of Calcio Storico are a blend of tradition and modernity. The game is played on a field covered in sand, reminiscent of the arenas of ancient times. Each team comprises 27 players, with no substitutions allowed, making endurance and resilience key components of the game. The objective is simple: score more points than the opponent by getting the ball into the opponent’s goal, which runs the width of each end of the field. However, the means to achieve this goal involve a combination of techniques, including tackling, wrestling, and the occasional fistfight, all of which are legal and often result in a spectacle that is as much a battle as it is a sporting competition.
What sets Calcio Storico apart from other sports is not just the physicality of the game but the deep cultural significance it holds for the people of Florence. The players, who participate voluntarily, are seen as modern-day gladiators, embodying the virtues of courage, strength, and loyalty to their neighbourhoods. The costumes, the historical procession that precedes the final match, and the passionate crowds that gather to watch all contribute to an electric atmosphere, transporting spectators back in time to the heart of Renaissance Florence.
For travellers seeking an experience that combines history, culture, and raw athletic competition, Calcio Storico is a must-see. It offers a glimpse into the soul of Florence, where tradition is preserved and celebrated with fervour and pride. Whether you’re a sports enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking an unforgettable experience, Calcio Storico offers an event as unique as it is exhilarating, a testament to the enduring spirit of one of Italy‘s most beloved cities.
Where to stay for the Calcio Storico?
Calcio Storico is played right in Piazza Santa Croce, where the square is covered in sand and temporary stands go up in front of the Basilica di Santa Croce. It’s loud, physical, and intensely local — and staying in or near Santa Croce lets you walk to the matches and the costumed parades without fighting Florence traffic.
Below are five hotel picks (from splurge to budget) and two solid camping options if you’d rather sleep under Tuscan skies and save money.
Hotels
Relais Santa Croce / Palazzo Firenze by Baglioni Hotels (High-end luxury, steps from the action)
This is an 18th-century noble palazzo with original frescoes, soaring ceilings, and period details — think a grand Florentine aristocratic townhouse rather than a generic luxury hotel. It has only a couple of dozen rooms/suites, so it feels private. Staff lean into old-school service, and some suites have ridiculous volumes of space (the Royal Suite actually merges two historic salons). The property sits in the Santa Croce district, just a very short walk from the square where Calcio Storico is played, so you’re basically embedded in the neighbourhood’s festival energy.
Why stay here for Calcio Storico:
- You’re in Santa Croce itself — ideal if you want to watch the historic costumed parade come through and then get back “home” fast after the match.
- Atmosphere-wise, it matches the event. Calcio Storico is Renaissance pageantry + street brawl; this place is Renaissance pageantry + silk drapes.
Plaza Hotel Lucchesi (Upscale 4★ with a rooftop pool overlooking Florence)
This 4-star hotel sits by the River Arno, a short riverside walk from Santa Croce and the Uffizi. Guests love the rooftop: there’s a panoramic terrace, cocktail bar, and a pool facing the Florence skyline and sunsets. People specifically call out that rooftop as one of the best views in town, and you can cool off in the pool after a day in the sun and dust.
Why stay here for Calcio Storico:
- Close enough to walk to Piazza Santa Croce, but just far enough away that you can actually sleep after the drums stop.
- A rooftop pool during a late-June Florence heatwave is not a luxury; it’s survival.
Hotel Calimala (Design-forward boutique, rooftop social scene)
Hotel Calimala is a 4-star boutique hotel set in a handsome 19th-century palazzo on Via Calimala in the historic centre. Rooms are noted for high ceilings, exposed stone, terrazzo floors, and modern marble bathrooms — much more “styled loft” than “classic drape.” On top, you’ve got Angel Roofbar & Dining, a multi-terrace rooftop with 360° views of Florence’s domes and towers, serving Mediterranean-leaning food, cocktails, and aperitivo.
Why stay here for Calcio Storico:
- You’re within an easy walk of Santa Croce and the Duomo area, so you can follow the pre-match historical parade through the centre, then head east to the pitch.
- Built-in evening plan: sunset drinks on the roof while Florence bells go off around you.
Hotel Bernini Palace (Classic 5★ Florentine grandeur near Palazzo Vecchio)
Bernini Palace is housed in a 15th-century palazzo just behind Piazza della Signoria and the Uffizi Gallery — i.e. right in the medieval/political heart of Florence. The building itself once hosted political life when Florence was briefly the capital of the Kingdom of Italy in the 19th century, and it leans into that historic prestige: carved-wood ceilings, tapestries, and heavy Florentine furniture.
Why stay here for Calcio Storico:
- You’ll be right on the path of the Corteo Storico (the costumed civic procession that moves through the historic centre toward Santa Croce before the match).
- Perfect if you want 5-star service, classic decor, and instant access to the Uffizi/Palazzo Vecchio area between games.
Hotel Santa Croce (Budget-friendly, ultra-close, tiny and warm)
This is a small, family-style hotel inside a 17th-century building in the historic centre. Rooms are air-conditioned but straightforward, with Wi-Fi, private bathrooms, safes, and TVs. Guests consistently praise the staff for genuinely warm, personal attention and for keeping everything extremely clean. Breakfast typically includes fresh pastries/croissants, and you’re just a few hundred feet from the Uffizi and Piazza della Signoria — and crucially, you’re basically around the corner from Basilica di Santa Croce and the Calcio pitch.
Why stay here for Calcio Storico:
- You can roll out of bed and be in the stands in minutes.
- Great if you’re prioritising location and friendliness over spa extras and velvet upholstery.
Camping / Glamping-style options
If you’re happy to sleep outside the centre and bus in for match days, Florence actually has good semi-urban camping. This is huge for Calcio Storico week because central rooms sell out fast and prices spike.
hu Firenze Camping in Town (Budget base with pools, ~3 km from Florence centre)
This spot is just about 3 km from central Florence and specifically targets city-break travellers. You get resort-style stuff you absolutely won’t find in any budget B&B in town: multiple pools (including a children’s zone), poolside bars, on-site restaurant and snack bars, plus air-conditioned mobile homes/bungalows. There’s a shuttle/bus connection to Florence, and you can also reach the city by bike or rideshare if you’re coming back late.
Why choose it:
- Way cheaper (especially if you’re travelling with friends and can split a mobile home).
- You can decompress by the pool after standing in the sun at Santa Croce.
Camping Village Panoramico Fiesole (Hilltop views of Florence, shuttle + pool)
Up in Fiesole, about 7 km above Florence, this long-running terraced campsite looks straight down over the city. People rave about the panoramic sunset views of the Florence skyline and the pool overlooking the valley, which is a lifesaver in June heat. The site offers shaded pitches under tall trees, plus bungalows/mobile homes with kitchens and air conditioning. There’s an on-site bar and restaurant, with a mini-market vibe. Crucially, they run a free shuttle from reception to the local bus stop, and Bus 7 takes you straight into Florence in roughly 20–30 minutes.
Why choose it:
- Cooler at night than the city centre (Fiesole sits higher, so evenings are breezier).
- Magical night view of Florence after a match day — you literally watch the city glow below you.
What to know:
- You’ll be relying on that shuttle/bus combo or a taxi after the game, so plan your late-night return.
How to think about it
If you want to live and breathe Calcio Storico, stay right in Santa Croce (Relais Santa Croce for luxury, Hotel Santa Croce for value). If you want comfort + a pool, Plaza Hotel Lucchesi or hu Firenze Camping in Town are clutch. If you want views and design-forward social energy, Hotel Calimala or Camping Village Panoramico Fiesole offers rooftop and skyline sunsets instead of just “a bed near the match.”
One last tip: The Finale of the Calcio Storico usually is in late June, and Florence in late June is hot, crowded, and sold out. Book as early as you can and aim for walkable — the streets around Santa Croce get gridlocked before and after each match.
How many teams participate in Calcio Storico?
There are four teams, each representing a different historical quarter of Florence: Santa Croce (Azzurri/Blues), Santo Spirito (Bianchi/Whites), San Giovanni (Verdi/Greens), and Santa Maria Novella (Rossi/Reds).
What are the rules of Calcio Storico?
The game is played on a rectangular sand field with a goal running the width of each end. Each team consists of 27 players, and no substitutions are allowed. The aim is to score points by throwing or kicking the ball over the opponent’s goal line. Physical contact is permitted, and players can use a mix of techniques from soccer, rugby, and wrestling to gain possession of the ball and score.
How long does a Calcio Storico match last?
A match lasts 50 minutes and is played without breaks, making stamina and determination crucial for the players.
Can anyone play in Calcio Storico?
Players are typically selected from the local population, with a strong emphasis on physical fitness, skill, and, importantly, a connection to the community and the historical quarters they represent. Participation is considered an honour and a demonstration of loyalty to one’s district.
How can I watch Calcio Storico?
Spectators can purchase tickets to watch the matches in Piazza Santa Croce. The event also attracts a global audience through television broadcasts and live streaming services.
How can I learn more about Calcio Storico?
To learn more about Calcio Storico, you can visit the official website of the event, explore documentaries, read historical accounts, or engage with online forums and social media groups dedicated to this unique sport.
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